A guide to Sainte-Victoire
The mountain trails, the markets of Aix, the vineyards of Puyloubier and the day trips worth the drive. What we tell our guests, written from Beaurecueil.
Beaurecueil is a handful of streets, a church and a village school at the foot of the south face of Sainte-Victoire. This is the mountain Cézanne painted all his life, and it sets the rhythm of the days here: the light that turns it from grey to pink, the mistral that sharpens its outline, the trails that start on its lower slopes.
Aix-en-Provence is fifteen minutes away. The vineyards of Puyloubier, the Luberon and the sea are all within the hour. This guide gathers what we recommend for a stay of a few days or a week, with the opening times and rules worth knowing.
In the footsteps of Paul Cézanne
The town, the studios, the mountain: the painter’s route in two days.
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Beaurecueil, the village below the mountain
The red earth of Roques-Hautes, the Route Cézanne and the village tables.
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Sainte-Victoire, Cézanne’s mountain
Five trails, the Croix de Provence, the priory and the summer rules.
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Aix-en-Provence, from market to fountain
The markets, Cézanne’s places, the Musée Granet and a day plan.
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Dining, from Michelin stars to farmhouse tables
The starred tables, the local addresses and the taste of the market.
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Around the mountain, vines, villages and calanques
The estates of Puyloubier, Château La Coste, Lourmarin and the calanques.
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The practical guide
Access, parking, the week’s markets, bookings and emergencies.
Read the articleThe guide map
Every address in the guide around the house. Tap a point to open it.
From the house
Approximate driving times, outside rush hour.
| Le Tholonet | 5 min |
|---|---|
| Saint-Antonin-sur-Bayon, Maison Sainte-Victoire | 10 min |
| Aix-en-Provence, old town | 15–20 min |
| Puyloubier | 20 min |
| Aix-en-Provence TGV station | 25 min |
| Vauvenargues | 30 min |
| Château La Coste | 35 min |
| Marseille Provence airport | 40 min |
| Marseille, Old Port | 40 min |
| Cassis | 40–45 min |
| Lourmarin | 50 min |
When to come
Spring
April to June is the best time to walk: the broom is in flower, the days are long and the massif is open without restrictions until the end of May.
Summer
The Aix Festival in July, early-morning markets and afternoons by the pool. From 1 June to 30 September, access to the hills depends each day on the fire risk: walk early and check the map the evening before.
Autumn
The grape harvest in September, a lower golden light on the mountain, trails open again in October. Cézanne’s sites in Aix stay open until the end of October.
Winter
Clear mistral days, Sainte-Victoire sharp against a blue sky, Aix without the crowds. The best season for long ridge walks, with a jacket.
Stay at the foot of the mountain
Villa La Campagne sleeps eight in Beaurecueil: four bedrooms, five bathrooms, an outdoor pool and an indoor pool, fifteen minutes from Aix.